Sodium Hyaluronate: The Salt That Holds Water in the Skin

The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the body; it is found in skin, joint fluid, and the vitreous humor of the eye. It was first isolated from a cow's eye. In cosmetics, it is usually obtained from bacterial fermentation or rooster combs.

How is it different from hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid has a high molecular weight and forms a thin film on the skin's surface. Sodium hyaluronate's molecule is smaller, so it can enter the upper layer of the skin more easily. That makes it popular in serums. Sometimes you see it listed as 'hyaluronic acid' when the product actually contains sodium hyaluronate.

What does it do on the skin?

This ingredient is a humectant, meaning it attracts water. It traps moisture in the upper layer of the skin and reduces water loss. Because its molecule is small, it penetrates the epidermis more easily. This reduces the appearance of fine lines and makes the skin look fuller. Studies also suggest it calms inflammation; for example, one study found it eased rosacea symptoms. There are also studies on wound healing. Its low molecular weight is said to provide deeper hydration than high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Where will you encounter it?

You'll find it in serums, creams, facial cleansers, and makeup removers. It is also used in hair care products, where it protects hair shafts against environmental stressors. It typically appears in products that promise hydration.

What do safety records say?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel evaluated this ingredient together with hyaluronic acid and potassium hyaluronate. Genotoxicity tests such as the Ames test, chromosomal aberration test, and micronucleus test were negative. There is no evidence it damages DNA. In animal studies during pregnancy, most tests showed no effect; one study with high-dose injection noted a cellular change in the adrenal glands. But that route of exposure is not the same as applying it to the skin in cosmetics. The CIR report mentions use of up to 2% in cosmetics. Additionally, hyaluronic acid has received FDA approval for intra-articular injections for knee osteoarthritis.

According to CIR data, no genotoxicity risk was found; use up to 2% in cosmetics has been reviewed.

If you see sodium hyaluronate on a label, there is no need to avoid it. It is a widely used, well-studied moisturizer. Still, every skin is different; if you get redness or itching, stop using the product. If your skin is very sensitive, try it on a small area first. In the first use, watch for any reaction.

Sources

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) - Final Report on Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, and Sodium Hyaluronate

• Healthline - Sodium Hyaluronate

• SpecialChem - Sodium Hyaluronate

• U.S. FDA (for intra-articular use of hyaluronic acid)