SLES: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, the Foam in Your Shampoo
Arin Editorial · how this is made
If the ingredient list on your shampoo or shower gel says 'Sodium Laureth Sulfate', you are not alone. This is one of the most used cleansing and foaming agents in cosmetics, often listed as SLES.
What does it do?
SLES is a surfactant. It helps water and oil mix, so dirt and sebum are lifted from the skin. It also creates dense, stable foam, even in hard water. You will find it in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, hand soaps, bubble baths, and hygiene products. Its source is dodecyl alcohol, made industrially from coconut oil or palm kernel oil.
How is it different from SLS?
SLES is the ethoxylated version of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Ethoxylation makes the molecule larger and gentler on the skin barrier. It keeps much of the cleansing power while being less irritating than SLS, which is why SLES is often chosen over SLS in hair and body cleansers.
Why is it discussed?
The main concern with SLES is not the molecule itself but the possible 1,4-dioxane residue formed during production. Ethoxylation can create very small amounts of 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct; purified grades reduce this residue. Database records classify concentrated SLES as a skin and eye irritant, and in some records as a skin sensitizer. This classification describes the hazard of the pure substance, not the diluted use in cosmetics. Some sources also rate SLES as moderately comedogenic (3/5), meaning it may contribute to clogged pores in acne-prone skin.
Approved for use under EU cosmetics regulation and not banned; concentrated SLES is classified as an eye and skin irritant and, in some records, a skin sensitizer.
If you see 'Sodium Laureth Sulfate' on a label, there is no need to panic. Avoid contact with the eyes; keep the product away from the eye area. If you have sensitive, dry, or eczematous skin, SLES cleansers may feel harsh, so you can try gentler surfactants. For acne-prone skin, the moderate comedogenic rating may contribute to clogged pores, but this depends on individual sensitivity.
Sources
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EPA ToxValDB (derleme kayıtları)