Citric acid: From lemons to cosmetics
Arin Editorial · how this is made
You see 'citric acid' on a skincare label, and it sounds like a lab product. But this acid occurs naturally in lemons, and it was first isolated from lemon juice in 1784. It is also widely used in cosmetics, from shampoos to face creams.
What is it?
Citric acid is a fruit acid. Carl Scheele first isolated it in 1784 by adding lime to lemon juice and obtaining calcium citrate. Large-scale production began in 1890 with Italy's citrus fruit industry.
What does it do in cosmetics?
It has three separate jobs. As a pH regulator, it adjusts the acidity of a formula, which helps protect the skin's natural barrier. It supports preservatives and extends the shelf life of creams and lotions. It is also a chelating agent: it binds metal ions so the product keeps its color and clarity.
Where does the debate come from?
Compiled records show conflicting genetic damage tests: some experiments reported an effect, others did not. Eye and skin irritation studies are also mixed; some report clear irritation, others report none. Because these are compilation records, dose, species and route of exposure need to be considered together. A substance looking irritating in one test does not mean it will irritate at the level used in cosmetics.
What do safety reviews say?
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR) evaluated citric acid and its derivatives in 2014 and found them safe under current conditions of use. FDA lists citric acid and some of its salts as generally recognized as safe (GRAS) in food. The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA) concluded they do not constitute a significant toxicological hazard and saw no need for an acceptable daily intake limit. Citric acid is also listed without restrictions in the EU cosmetics inventory, CosIng.
Citric acid is considered safe under current cosmetic and food uses by CIR and JECFA, and it is allowed without restrictions in the EU CosIng inventory.
Seeing citric acid on a label is not a warning sign on its own. The CIR panel considers it safe in cosmetics. Animal tests include eye and skin irritation records; keep the product away from your eyes and stop using it if irritation appears.
Sources
- EPA ToxCast / ToxValDB kayıtları